Oyster Omelets in Los Angeles

As seen on LA Weekly.

Omelets are a pretty ubiquitous dish. You can stuff almost anything in them: smoked salmon, spices and herbs, ham and Swiss cheese or apples and Brie. But you might not think of oysters, potato starch, bok choy and sweet chili as a compelling combination. At least, not unless you’re Taiwanese.
Potato and/or tapioca starch is first whipped in with the egg, which gives it a gelatinous texture. Large oysters and bok choy are thrown in and evenly distributed, and then the omelet is pan-fried. The dish is served with a sweet chili sauce similar to the sweet and sour sauce typically found at American-Chinese joints and drizzled over egg rolls, here minus the tartness.

There are many varieties of this dish, which is common in parts of Fujian and Singapore. In Los Angeles, however, oyster omelets are primarily whipped up by Taiwanese places. Here are six great examples.

6. Yi Mei Deli
The gooey texture typical of oyster omelets isn’t quite there, but that can be a good thing, depending on personal preferences. While the texture is a bit off target, the taste is spot on — and if you’re Taiwanese, the dish will have your taste buds reeling with nostalgia. The selling point is really the sauce, which hits an ideal balance between sweet and savory and coats the omelet nicely without being completely overwhelming. 943 W. Duarte Rd., Monrovia; (626) 275-8785.

5. Lee’s Garden
The dishes at Lee’s Garden may not win points for aesthetics, but given the context, no one seems to mind. The family-owned restaurant has been operating in the San Gabriel Valley for two decades, an impressive feat considering the high turnover rate for eateries in the area. The accompanying condiment is a dark, blood red color and more savory than other versions. 828 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra; 626-588-2284.

4. Old Country Café
Old Country Cafe is another San Gabriel Valley veteran. While the texture can be off-putting for first timers, their oyster omelet is perhaps the neatest of the bunch, served in a nearly perfect circle. It’s quite large, so anticipate it being an entire meal — or order the dish to share. 5805 Rosemead Blvd., Temple City; 626-291-5557.

Get the rest of the list here.